The El Dorado
National Forest stretches across thousands of acres, where varied rocks and
water supplies support all manner of conifers—pines, cedars, redwoods, firs—as
well as oaks, maples. and madrones. I could roam happily anywhere along its trails
in northern California and Nevada, but most often I take the easy, paved Cedar
Park trail. That park is in the portion of the forest that borders my
companion’s land, and I can reach it by climbing up the hill just behind the
house. Here at home I can see black-tailed deer, jackrabbits, and even coyotes.
Sometimes we hear the scream of a cougar from across the valley, but have never
seen one. Bears, too, are fortunately rare here, though one wanders in from the
hills once in a while.
Today I climbed the
hill through a shower of golden oak leaves. This is the loveliest of seasons in
California; autumn is giving way to winter, and we have already had one brief
snowstorm. The hill itself is the only difficult part of the walk; the grade is
steep, obstructed by rocks and manzanita, and rattlesnakes occasionally
sunbathe there. Once safely at the top of the hill, though, I can easily follow
the mile-long circular path around to the overlook. From there I can look many
miles to the east and see the snow-covered peaks of the Sierra.
The first time I
walked the Cedar Park trail, I was highly amused—it’s wide and paved, with
benches at intervals where walkers can rest. Hiking in New York’s Central Park,
or San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park, is much more strenuous! However, if you
want a difficult hike, there are always places to find it. Having this trail
near at foot is a pleasure.
The spot where I
enter the trail is near one bench, so I may stop to check my bootlaces, drink a
little water, and listen to the sounds of the forest. Sometimes I hear only
jays, crows, and yellowthroat warblers; at other times, there may be distant
traffic noise from Sly Park Road. Walking down a hill, I may meet another
walker or two, but the trail is never crowded.
Trails around lakes
and through forests have always appealed to me, but I didn’t have easy access
to them until moving away from Alameda. Here my companion and I can roam in our
own forest at will, or drive for a couple of hours farther up into the
mountains. In hot weather, particularly, we may drive up a few thousand feet to
Silver Lake, where there are pleasant campgrounds with trees and water. Our
favorite trail here follows a creek where large boulders create cascades.
Many people pitch
tents at the Silver Lake campground, and before getting the RV, so did we. But
one night a bear wandered through our campsite, too close to the tent for
comfort, and we decided it was time for something more substantial than a tent.
The rig we chose is a Winnebago View, a “just right” vehicle that is small
enough to drive nearly anywhere, but large enough for everything we need. Only
the hardiest tent campers can stay on the road more than a week or so, but in
the View we can travel for months at a time. Suddenly a new collection of state
and national parks, Forest Service campgrounds, and other delights were
available.
The best parts of
the national parks are the hiking trails, where usually only a short walk makes
it possible to leave the pack and find communion only with the natural world.
When we spent a few days in Yosemite one January, snow and ice kept most
visitors off the trails, but we drove the View to the base of Yosemite Falls at
dawn one day, and had that popular trail almost to ourselves. The air was cold
and still, except for the cracking of ice at the peak of the falls, and no
animal tracks dotted the snow. We
walked in silence between snow-covered rocks and across a small stone
bridge over the Merced River.
Appealing as the
national parks are, I like less-known places even better. We often stay in
Forest Service campgrounds, where we may have a source of water, but no
electricity or other conveniences. Most campers in these primitive campgrounds
want to get away from it all as much as we do, so we seldom have to contend with
the sound of generators or noisy parties. Occasionally we may have an entire
campground to ourselves, which is pure bliss.
Walking on the
Forest Service trails is usually an adventure, and not always a pleasant one.
We have coped with mosquitoes, mud, and other hazards. The hiker feels very
alone there, with no friendly park ranger coming along to give a feeling of
security, and I suppose the trails could be dangerous. They seem safer than
many city streets, though, and offer a glimpse of the wild beauty explorers
found in the West centuries ago.
The most
dangerous walks I’ve taken were not in forests, but in large cities. Only a
foolhardy woman would stride along a street in Chicago or New York with a purse
swinging at her side, or while wearing conspicuous, expensive jewelry. City
walking has its own appeal, though. When I moved to New York in 1970, when it
was still possible for a young editor to afford a decent apartment, I lived on
East 88th St., not far from Gracie Mansion. Being unable to see more
than a patch of sky gave me a claustrophobic feeling, and so I often walked
along the East River to gaze out over the water. When I discovered that taking
the subway or bus to my job at Random House in the rush hours was simply
horrendous, I began walking to work. It took about 40 minutes each way, and was
very enjoyable. Starting in my neighborhood, I could look in the windows of
German and Hungarian restaurants and bakeries. As I continued through the
eighties and seventies, tall apartment buildings gave way to more and more
shops; in the sixties and fifties, to even taller office buildings.
At 50th
St. and Third Avenue, I reached Random House. All along the way I had seen
fascinating people, art galleries, shops filled with crafts, florists, and
books galore. For a young woman from the Middle West it was an overwhelming
experience.
The daily long
walk kept me healthy and slim, and taught me the value of daily walking in
whatever environment I find myself. I am in my seventies now, yet go for long
walks whenever possible. The idea of joining a gym for exercise seems
laughable. (I do have a stationary bike for use in snowy or rainy weather.) If
everyone walked to work or school, or even to a bus stop or train station, it
might be a major step in fighting the obesity epidemic.