Showing posts with label California Zephyr. Show all posts
Showing posts with label California Zephyr. Show all posts

Monday, May 9, 2016

THE CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR



Text copyright © 2016 by Carol Stone.  Photos © 2016 by Thane Puissegur and Carol Stone.

 
My photo of the Feather River in 1968. All four of the Vista Dome cars can be seen at the end of the train.

Some time this year we hope to ride Amtrak from Sacramento to Chicago, on the train that’s called the California Zephyr. My partner the train nut has always wanted to ride on the Zephyr, which bears the name of one of the most famous trains in US history. (If you ever saw Gene Wilder in Silver Streak, you saw the Zephyr.) The original train was discontinued in 1970, when Amtrak took over the Union Pacific railway.

I can boast that I actually rode the original Zephyr on one of its final runs, in 1968. At that time I was dating another train nut, and when he heard that I would be traveling to California on an expense account, he insisted that I ride the Zephyr before it was “ruined” by the coming Amtrak acquisition. (Thank you, Bert!) I knew little about trains, except that they were a pleasant way to travel, but it sounded like a good idea, and I was able to persuade my employer to let me travel by train instead of airplane. (I was limited to a one-way ticket, though.)

In its glory days the Zephyr featured truly luxurious accommodations for passengers. Elaborate meals at reasonable prices  were served by attentive stewards in the dining car; there were flowers on each of the linen-tablecloth-covered tables. Murals covered the few windowless walls, and of course the windows framed spectacular views. For those who could pay a little more, there were roomettes, bedrooms, and compartments. Even the coach seats were reasonably comfortable.

One of the features passengers remembered was the Zephyrettes. These attractive, friendly young women made sure passengers were enjoying the ride and getting anything they needed on board. One of them, Nellie O’Grady, co-wrote a fascinating story in the 1955 Saturday Evening Post describing her seven years as a Zepherette—years in which she met hundreds of people including Dwight Eisenhower, fended off the wolves who misunderstood her role, and worked very hard. (Most Zepherettes only lasted a couple of years.) Apparently she loved nearly every moment.

The Zephyrettes were gone by 1968, and I have to admit that I don’t remember whether the murals were still gracing the walls of the train I rode. But, the trip was wonderful. I spent a good deal of time in the dome car, especially during the Far West portion of it. At night I had a comfortable roomette with a small private bathroom. The meals were delicious and served elegantly. Though I had taken along some paperback books to read, for once I read nothing. It was much more appealing to sip a glass of wine while talking with other passengers, or simply to gaze out the huge windows as we passed through the Rockies and the Sierra Nevada Mountains, then down the Feather River Canyon into California. The two days and nights passed all too quickly.

Will our ride on today’s Amtrak Zephyr be that good? Probably not. Few things are as enjoyable at my age as they were when I was young. The pictures on the Amtrak site do look very appealing, though, and traveling with my partner (who makes the most of every travel opportunity) should help.

I know this: Riding the Zephyr will be an order of magnitude better than riding any airplane today. Back in the sixties, airplane travel was glamorous. People checked their large bags instead of jostling each other while fitting the bags into crowded overhead bins. Meals (not usually gourmet, but not bad, either) were served on most flights. Seats were wider than they are today, and passengers were a bit narrower. Riding on airplanes at that time was such a pleasant, supermodern experience that in 1968 the Zephyr may have even seemed a little quaint, in spite of the wonderful scenery.

Now, even if the Zephyr is less than it was years ago, it will certainly be better than an airplane. I am looking forward to it eagerly.