THE CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR

Text copyright © 2016 by Carol Stone.  Photos © 2016 by Thane Puissegur and Carol Stone.

 

My photo of the Feather River in 1968. All four of the Vista Dome cars can be seen at the end of the train.

Some time this year we hope to ride Amtrak from Sacramento to Chicago, on the train that’s called the California Zephyr. My partner the train nut has always wanted to ride on the Zephyr, which bears the name of one of the most famous trains in US history. (If you ever saw Gene Wilder in Silver Streak, you saw the Zephyr.) The original train was discontinued in 1970, when Amtrak took over the Union Pacific railway.

I can boast that I actually rode the original Zephyr on one of its final runs, in 1968. At that time I was dating another train nut, and when he heard that I would be traveling to California on an expense account, he insisted that I ride the Zephyr before it was “ruined” by the coming Amtrak acquisition. (Thank you, Bert!) I knew little about trains, except that they were a pleasant way to travel, but it sounded like a good idea, and I was able to persuade my employer to let me travel by train instead of airplane. (I was limited to a one-way ticket, though.)

In its glory days the Zephyr featured truly luxurious accommodations for passengers. Elaborate meals at reasonable prices  were served by attentive stewards in the dining car; there were flowers on each of the linen-tablecloth-covered tables. Murals covered the few windowless walls, and of course the windows framed spectacular views. For those who could pay a little more, there were roomettes, bedrooms, and compartments. Even the coach seats were reasonably comfortable.

One of the features passengers remembered was the Zephyrettes. These attractive, friendly young women made sure passengers were enjoying the ride and getting anything they needed on board. One of them, Nellie O’Grady, co-wrote a fascinating story in the 1955 Saturday Evening Post describing her seven years as a Zepherette—years in which she met hundreds of people including Dwight Eisenhower, fended off the wolves who misunderstood her role, and worked very hard. (Most Zepherettes only lasted a couple of years.) Apparently she loved nearly every moment.

The Zephyrettes were gone by 1968, and I have to admit that I don’t remember whether the murals were still gracing the walls of the train I rode. But, the trip was wonderful. I spent a good deal of time in the dome car, especially during the Far West portion of it. At night I had a comfortable roomette with a small private bathroom. The meals were delicious and served elegantly. Though I had taken along some paperback books to read, for once I read nothing. It was much more appealing to sip a glass of wine while talking with other passengers, or simply to gaze out the huge windows as we passed through the Rockies and the Sierra Nevada Mountains, then down the Feather River Canyon into California. The two days and nights passed all too quickly.

Will our ride on today’s Amtrak Zephyr be that good? Probably not. Few things are as enjoyable at my age as they were when I was young. The pictures on the Amtrak site do look very appealing, though, and traveling with my partner (who makes the most of every travel opportunity) should help.

I know this: Riding the Zephyr will be an order of magnitude better than riding any airplane today. Back in the sixties, airplane travel was glamorous. People checked their large bags instead of jostling each other while fitting the bags into crowded overhead bins. Meals (not usually gourmet, but not bad, either) were served on most flights. Seats were wider than they are today, and passengers were a bit narrower. Riding on airplanes at that time was such a pleasant, supermodern experience that in 1968 the Zephyr may have even seemed a little quaint, in spite of the wonderful scenery.

Now, even if the Zephyr is less than it was years ago, it will certainly be better than an airplane. I am looking forward to it eagerly.

 

RV COFFEE

Text copyright © 2016 by Carol Stone.  Photos © 2016 by Thane Puissegur and Carol Stone.



Drinking coffee in magnificent surroundings

Once a coffee addict, always a coffee addict. What was good enough for Voltaire and Balzac is certainly good enough for a hack writer like me. I need three cups of coffee a day wherever I am, including wherever the RV is. This is a common problem, as evidenced by the many comments online about making coffee while traveling.

Some RV manufacturers have tried to respond by installing electric coffeepots under the galley cupboard, but apparently that has been a failure. The appliances use too much precious counter space, and are no better than any electric coffeepots, and so some RV owners have had the pots removed at their own expense. In my opinion most shore-power electricity is a silly luxury for big rigs, anyway. For most of us at least part of the time, propane or campfire pots are needed.

What other solutions are there? Of course, there are always old-fashioned metal percolators that have the advantage of using propane rather than electricity. These are also inexpensive and easy to use, but they can add a metallic taste to the brew. I haven’t used one in decades.

At home, I prefer using a Melitta eight-cup cone with a glass carafe, having some in the morning and reheating the rest as needed in the microwave; on the road I use a space-saving small cone and matching ceramic mug. This is only good for a cup or two at a time, though. The Melitta cone and travel mug combo shown online looks appealing: https://shoponline.melitta.com/product/pour-over-travel-mug-set-red/pour-over-coffee-makers. Again, however, this probably makes only a small amount at a time. What I really want is to make at least three or four cups in the morning, and to save some for later. A Thermos bottle will keep it hot without the need for a microwave.

French presses  make excellent coffee and are popular with many people. I had one for a while but quickly broke two of the very fragile carafes and realized they were impractical for RV use. I like the lack of paper filters, though, and may buy a shatterproof type some time. One online model has a stainless steel carafe. Another one has a plastic one that has received bad reviews.

The brand of coffee can make all the difference in quality. Much as I like the ambiance of Starbucks coffee shops, I don’t think much of their coffee, and Peet’s coffee is too powerful even for me. Years ago I visited New Orleans and learned to use French Market coffee, which is part chicory. Though the delicious black brew is strong, it has less caffeine than pure coffee; I mix it with milk for a smooth but robust drink. At home I often first heat the milk, as they do in New Orleans; on the road I make do with cold milk. Incidentally, it is hard to find the brand in many places. Raley’s supermarket sells it in my home area, so I stock up on it before traveling.

Coffee grounds are  a messy part of RV life, just as they are at home.  They should never be put down the drain! That’s a good way to clog the delicate plumbing in an RV or to overload a campground septic tank. Even in an urban situation, they can build up in a drain and lead to plumber’s bills. At home, I put the grounds and filters in a compost bin, or put the grounds near plants in the garden. Sadly, I’ve never seen a compost bin in a campground (regular or Wal-Mart), and must put the grounds and filters in the trash. If I’m far out in a forest where the plants can benefit, I put the grounds out of sight somewhere far from where anyone will camp or walk.




RV GENDER ROLES

Text copyright © 2016 by Carol Stone.  Photos © 2016 by Thane Puissegur and Carol Stone.

Any gathering of RVers will include at least a couple of instructive sessions. When we attended a rally last year, the activity for one morning was advertised as both instruction and sharing about common RV mechanical problems. It sounded really useful for any RVer. But then I noticed this was supposed to be for the men, and the “ladies” were expected to go shopping or do something else that might be considered feminine!

I was furious, and thought, Who came up with a stupid idea like that?  Many women travel solo or with other women; because boys tend to be better trained than girls in mechanical matters, this session would likely be even more useful for women than for men. Why not let the men go shopping instead?

Then I thought about how my partner and I divide the work when we travel. I have to confess that he does the typical “male” things, like dealing sternly with mechanics who want to overcharge us, and I do the more “female” things, like doing most of the cooking and cleaning. Have we fallen into our parents’ old gender-role patterns? What a disgusting idea! I am a feminist, and he is a modern man in most ways. Yet, we seem to be conforming to traditional roles.

Some of the tasks in RV travel require more physical strength than some people have. I have arthritis that prevents me from doing some things. Other chores may require special skills; my partner is less comfortable with computers than I am. This has little to do with our genders.

When the dualies meet the road, what it comes down to is not gender roles, but teamwork. The person who is more skilled at one job, or more willing to do it—my partner, thank heavens, is more able and willing to empty the blackwater tank than I am—should do it. The other person(s) should do other tasks as appropriate. No job should be defined as one for “men” or “ladies,” though. And please spare me from being excluded from a helpful session about RV maintenance.

THE RETURN OF GLEN CANYON

 

The NRA recreation area at Hite, Utah, is one of the spookiest sites we have seen in years of RV camping. Arriving early one evening in March, we were reminded of one of those sci-fi movies where all the people have vanished, leaving homes and stores open and lighted. The small, empty grocery store appeared to be fully stocked and ready for customers; the second floor of the fire department was lighted (and a rescue dummy was hanging from a hook); and the gas station was useable for credit-card holders. The toilets were not only clean and in operation, but were lighted and heated. Barbed wire fences surrounded much of what had recently been a thriving campground.

 

The visitor’s center worker at another campground had warned us about Hite, saying that only one ranger was left in charge of the place-we promptly named him or her the Lone Ranger--and that probably the campground was closed until further notice. As our Rand McNally atlas showed a tree and tent there, we took a chance and found the deserted site.

 

The next morning the ranger actually appeared. He explained that because the water level at this (northern) end of Lake Powell had fallen too far for boating and other water uses, scarcely anyone wanted to stop there, so the NPS had closed it down, but left it ready to reopen if the mountain snowpack melted and restored the water level. (Judging by a sign we saw indicating that the area has been closed due to lack of appropriations, there is obviously a political issue at work as well.) Indeed, it may reopen in a few weeks.

 

Back in the sixties, there was a huge uproar about damming the Colorado River to create Lake Powell. Edward Abbey and other environmentalists were enraged. The Sierra Club published The Place No One Knew, a book showing Eliot Porter’s photos of beautiful Glen Canyon, warning that it would be drowned forever. Like many environmental decisions, this one was decided by politicians. Glen Canyon was filled (or “reclaimed,”), and Lake Powell was created. The Glen Canyon Recreation Area was created in 1972 on  more than a million acres of land and water. Lake Powell, 186 miles long, has become a favored spot for racing motorboats and other water uses, as well as providing water and electricity for much of the Southwest. Except for some members of  the Sierra Club and other die-hard conservationists, opposition has gradually died down over the years.

 

Now upper Lake Powell is drying so much because of our changing climate that the magnificent ochre and sienna cliffs of Glen Canyon are again visible. We reveled in the scenery and enjoyed having the deserted site to ourselves.

Snow caps the mountain peaks above the canyon, and its melting may soon at least partly restore Lake Powell. This would be a mixed blessing, allowing for water recreation and for more important water uses, but much of Glen Canyon would disappear again.


Text and photos copyright 2016 by Carol Stone and Thane Puissegur

 

SUNRISE AT GOOSENECKS

When I was working or going to school, this was my favorite part of the day, when all the world seemed dark and still. I’d make a cup of coffee and take it into my home office, where I could begin writing and thinking without distraction. The first light appearing outside the window seemed to wake up my brain as well. Before the sun rose completely and the dog had to be walked, my work was well underway.

Since retiring I have found it more pleasant to sleep late, knowing that there would be time during the day for whatever I need to do. Today was an exception, though. When we arrived yesterday at Utah’s Goosenecks State Park and saw the stunning sunset, we knew sunrise would be wonderful as well. So, this morning I woke while the sky was still dark, eager to see the sun appear over the hills to the east.

 

 

Goosenecks—what an odd name for a beautiful landscape—gets its name from three loops of the San Juan River. Geologists call this one of the world’s most spectacular examples of a meandering, entrenched river. The campground is perched more than a thousand feet above the river. Sheer drops of layered pink and siena sandstone and limestone form the canyon walls; where some layers slope gradually downward, they have accumulated some soil and are tinted grayish-green by sagebrush. At the top of one wall, erosion has created a form resembling a Mayan pyramid. All these layers have been exposed by upthrusts, so they now illustrate more than three hundred million years of the past. All that time the river has continued its meandering path through the uplifted area.

Though the park is open for day use, only a few campsites are available, and can’t be reserved. However, mid-March is cold enough to discourage many campers, enabling us to get a site directly above one loop of the river.

Sunrise took only a few minutes, illuminating some tall rocks in Monument Valley miles to the southwest as well as the tops of the east-facing riverbanks below us. The sun’s rays were reflected to the west-facing canyon walls as well. And by mid-morning the river itself took on the colors of the sandstone walls. A lone rafter paddled down the river, but all was quiet except for a few noisy crows flying above us. When it was nearly noon and the sun was overhead, the placid, silt-laden river was brightly lighted.

Later in the day, day-use visitors arrived and threatened the silence, but they, too, were awestruck enough to be quiet. It was another calm, beautiful day at Goosenecks.

RV CONTENTENTMENT

When I was in college in the 1950s all the wealthy girls, especially those in sororities, wore cashmere sweaters. Some of the more obnoxious ones would even look at the labels in other girls’ sweaters to see whether the garments were cashmere. The cashmere sweaters were in lovely colors, and had that inimitable soft, buttery texture.  I longed to own one, but they were far beyond my budget. So, I made do with polyester sweaters that soon pilled annoyingly, or with wool sweaters that sometimes were scratchy.

By the 1960s, many things seemed more important than wearing cashmere, and I nearly forgot having once yearned for those sweaters. As the years went on, I have worn various natural fabrics and a bewildering assortment of polyester materials, but never cashmere.

Last autumn, Macy’s had a big sale on cashmere sweaters, and I thought, Why not? I ordered one in a pretty teal green, and finally had the sweater I had wanted sixty years earlier. It seemed about time.

Why do we long for things that others have, or that are too expensive? Seen from my cronish perspective, envy seems ridiculous. If acquiring things brought contentment, perhaps it would make sense, but some of the most dissatisfied expressions I have ever seen were on the faces of obviously wealthy women attending operas or shopping in expensive stores. Where does getting more stuff end for them?

I thought I’d seen everything in this regard. Yesterday, though, we stopped at a Walmart where we were joined by a massive, heavy commercial tractor connected to a long-bed fifth wheel RV puller, using the extra length of the tractor bed to haul a Smart car mounted crosswise! Not only that, but there was a large sleeper cab behind the tractor driver’s seat, and bicycles on the back of the fifth wheel. (We asked the owners how they could remove the car, and they showed us: it easily rolled down a portable ramp. They drove off in it to have lunch at a nearby restaurant.) Only two people were visible; perhaps some pets shared all that space. What a shocking waste of resources! The owners were friendly and informative, but they certainly were oblivious to their enormous carbon footprint.

At this moment I am at an RV rally, sitting in our little Winnebago View and surrounded by humungous RVs that surely cost hundreds of thousands of dollars. I have no idea whether the owners look down on us or envy our maneuverability, and I don’t care. (To their credit, they are friendly and act unconcerned with possessions. Maybe the RVs represent all their assets.)  I am very contented with the View and with this life. My life in general is simple and costs little; though like most people I sometimes worry about medical and other expenses, I certainly do not envy the wealthy one percent.

Oh, and that cashmere sweater? It itches. I should have ordered a good nylon one instead. As the old saying goes, be careful of what you wish for.

 

FUTURE SHOCK

In 1970 futurist Alvin Toffler wrote the blockbuster Future Shock, in which he predicted that the pressures of accelerating change from an industrial to a post-industrial society would lead to stress and even mental illness. Certainly the effects of stress are all around us. In this current election year, many voters are so frightened of terrorism that they not only want to return to the mythical “good old days,” but also will accept simplistic, racist ideas like those proposed by Donald Trump and Ted Cruz. Whether the stress also results from changes in our social environment is debatable, but it seems likely.

 

Even driving a car has become more stressful in recent years. Driving used to be fun. My first car, a VW Beetle, was easy to drive (once I adapted to the stick shift) and to care for. It was cheap, too; even as an impoverished young editor, I could afford to buy the  car brand new. Gas cost something like 37 cents a gallon, and some gas stations sweetened the deal with free glasses. I bought the car in Colorado, did some fabulous mountain driving, and drove the bug home to Chicago. I even named the car Adalia (the generic name for ladybugs). That may have been a little too cute; however, I really loved that little car. Selling it when I moved to New York was a major mistake.

 

Though I am fond of my current car (a Honda Fit), too, getting on most roads today is no fun at all. I much prefer riding on a train, but passenger trains are becoming rare, and they are often delayed while the more profitable fright trains have priority. Like driving cars, riding on planes was once fun; today, security checks and all the other difficulties of flying make it a horrendous experience.

 

I do not especially enjoy driving the View, either (though handling it is quite easy). Having a high perch from which to see the scenery, and knowing that a galley and bathroom are just a few steps behind the driver’s seat, make it less stressful than the alternatives.

           

Auto-driven cars are already appearing, and the idea scares me. On the other hand, when I consider the idiotic behavior of some human drivers, I think a robotic car may be an improvement.

 

Another major and stressful area of change is medicine. When I was very young, Doc Brown would make house calls, or prescribe pills to patients who sat on the horsehair couch in his office. That was before the polio vaccine and other wonderful medical advances, and I would never willingly return to those days.

 

In some ways, though, I wonder if medical care has declined. Ever since my years as a caregiver, I have carried a spiral notebook in which I record the results of every medical visit. Practitioners tend to smile condescendingly when they see it, but many times I have been able to supply information that has somehow disappeared from their computerized records.

 

I have been fortunate in finding competent doctors wherever I have lived, but am somewhat unnerved by office visits when the doctor or their assistant has sat at a computer asking me questions and presumably Googling for information about my condition. Being touched during an examination has become rare. I hope the myriad lab tests and X-rays are more informative.

 

Modern medicine relies greatly on modern electronics. Electronic devices of all types have changed greatly, even during the past few months. Whatever gizmo I buy is already obsolete. Back in the eighties, I decided to write my PhD dissertation on a PC, and spent $2000 for an Apple IIe computer and dot-matrix printer. That was an enormous expense for a grad student, but I reasoned that I could use them in writing and editing for many years, and it would be a good investment. Of course, they were out of date within a year, and in succeeding years I have bought many computers and learned countless word-processing programs. Sometimes I long for an old electric typewriter with a correctable ribbon.

 

The financial world has also evolved quickly, mainly because of computers. Today even individuals can do our banking online. It’s a great convenience, but we also need to worry that our bank accounts and charge accounts can be hacked. Our very identities can be stolen, endangering Social Security records, investments, and other important assets.

 

Though change tends to come at a glacial pace in education, computers and other factors have affected even that part of our environment. Education seems from a distance to be far superior to what it was back in the forties and fifties when I attended a two-room rural grade school and a small-town high school. Materials for students are beyond the wildest dreams of teachers and students back then. One would think that the entire U.S. population would be extremely well educated, but it is not. The top students still do well, encouraged by parents and schools that can afford to help them. However, it is rare to find clerks in stores who can add up prices without a computer, and rarer still to see letters that contain no misspellings or obvious grammatical errors. There are many reasons for this (such as education being a lower spending priority than defense),  but even I sometimes long for a return to the “three Rs.” Recently I ran across a letter written by my grandfather, who dropped out of school after the eighth grade. It was much more legible and literate than some of the scientists’ manuscripts I have edited.

Even the RV life—once a complete escape from the shocks of modern life—has changed dramatically. Only a few years ago, an RV might have a small TV set, but other technology was sparse. Today few owners seem satisfied with less than remote-controlled cable TV, Wi-Fi, GPS, and a disgusting collection of other electronics. They might as well stay home.

Fortunately, actually using all those gadgets is a matter of choice. We can still drive off into a national forest or park, or a public land, and get away from future-shock stress for a while. We can read, walk, swim, just as people have done throughout history. Any problems of campground life and maintaining an RV are miniscule compared with those of society at large.

 

IRONY

My last post praised the merits of my Nook e-reader--the portability, large memory, and so on. I have been reading a fascinating novel, Red River, by Lalita Tademy, the current selection for my book club. As no hardcover copy of the book was available, I bought the ebook from Barnes & Noble. Two days ago, the Nook became comatose. All the books stored on it are lost to me. I am hoping to get it repaired and to finish the Tademy book before the next book club meeting, but suspect the Nook is done for. Phooey!

READING IN AN RV

A couple of years ago I bought a Nook e-reader from Barnes &Noble. This has opened up a new world of RV reading—partly good, partly bad—for me.

RV space is extremely limited, and that’s a problem for anyone who reads. Even a few paperbacks can take up space that is needed for something else. The Nook is ideal for RV travel. I can load many books on it—a few science books for reference or for bringing my knowledge up to date, a couple of current mysteries, some novels, and a couple of classics I’ve always meant to read.

 Though many ebooks are available for purchase from Barnes &Noble and other sources, that option can get expensive. Fortunately, I can also check out free ebooks and magazines from my local library. Though they must be returned, like any library books, the returns can be done online.

At times the lighted screen of the Nook helps enormously. Even the amount of brightness is adjustable. As a result, while my vision is poor, if we are boondocking and limited to only a low light level I can still read. That isn’t always true for books on paper.

Of course, if I should lose or damage the Nook, I may lose an entire  library. Supposedly Barnes & Noble can easily replace lost ebooks I have bought from them. That’s a bit scary, and I have not yet tested it.

I also have some doubts about just how much I learn or retain from ebooks. Studies of reading retention from ebooks and traditional books have had mixed results, though in the last few years ebooks have seemed more acceptable to students and teachers, as would be expected. (Ten years ago I thought “kindle” was only a verb.  Today nearly everyone knows what a Kindle is.) Nevertheless, some studies have shown greater retention from solid books that demand an interaction with paper, type fonts, and other characteristics. Much research is needed in this field.

My own experience bears this out. I have read many ebooks since retiring, both to fill out my “bucket list” and for casual enjoyment. Though the serious reading (including a lot of Tolstoy) has been pleasurable, and the built-in dictionary has helped with comprehension during reading, I find afterward that I haven’t retained a great deal from it. My impression is that reading the same books in a traditional paper format would have been more productive. I could have underlined portions of the text, written comments in the margins. When I look at books I read many years ago, just seeing my additions to them recalls a great deal. That may be possible with ebooks (it’s possible to highlight passages and add comments, but inconvenient). I haven’t made the effort, though. For me, the technology is too new. Younger readers may find it easy to handle, and won’t care about books on paper. (What a terrible thought! I hope I don’t  live long enough to see that happen.)

Casual reading is another matter. If I don’t remember all the details of a murder mystery, it doesn’t matter. In fact, I may be able to reread a book in a few years when I don’t recall whodunit! It’s an unexpected bonus of aging.

So, which mode of reading is better? As with so many things, it all depends. During travels in the RV, I am grateful for the Nook. During time at home I still tend to accumulate books printed on paper and add them to the library I’ve built since childhood. During many moves around the country over the years, and a major downsizing in 2005, I have ruthlessly cut down on that library, but it grows back as quickly as kudzu. And, many of those books are old friends, treasures that I have simply packed up and taken with me. Perhaps in time I will have a Nook library of favorites also, but it hasn’t happened yet.

 

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THEODORE ROOSEVELT NATIONAL PARK

For us, it was one of those serendipitous finds. Having a serious problem with the RV in Calgary and unable to find a Canadian repair shop that could handle it, we ended up in Minot, North Dakota. In making our way back to the lower states from Minot, we discovered  the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. People tend to drive past this park as they go on to Mount Rushmore or Glacier, but that’s a mistake. Historically and geologically, it’s an interesting place. Oddly shaped buttes, layered by millennia of deposition and compression, rise rather suddenly out of the grassy plains of the Badlands. This is not the breathtaking scenery of Glacier or Yosemite, but the gentler beauty of the Old West. Jackrabbits, vast towns of prairie dogs, and other Plains animals dwell among the sagebrush and cottonwoods.

When young Teddy Roosevelt—already an accomplished writer and legislator—stepped off the train from the East in 1883, he was ill prepared for hunting bison and for the Badlands. Imagine how the local cowboys must have reacted to the nearsighted, scrawny dude whose sterling silver hunting knife had been crafted by Tiffany! With his characteristic enthusiasm, T.R. immediately responded to the West, bought land, and went into the cattle business. A partner managed the ranch when Roosevelt went back to the East.

Only five months later, tragedy struck. Roosevelt’s beloved wife and his mother died on the same day, leaving him with a newborn daughter (who would grow up to be the uncontrollable Alice Roosevelt). Wretched, he returned to the West for the solace that environment provided. In 1884 he bought a second ranch, the Elkhorn. That ranch home is long gone now, but a model of it has been constructed from descriptions.

A model of the Elkhorn ranch house at the visitor's center. This child had grown tired of sightseeing!

T.R. sold it in 1890, after failing spectacularly as a cattle rancher. In Hunting Trips of a Ranchman, one of his numerous books, T.R. vividly described the Elkhorn ranch and its surroundings: "My home ranch-house stands on the river brink. From the low, long veranda, shaded by leafy cotton-woods, one looks across sand bars and shallows to a strip of meadowland, behind which rises a line of sheer cliffs and grassy plateaus. This veranda is a pleasant place in the summer evenings when a cool breeze stirs along the river and blows in the faces of the tired men, who loll back in their rocking-chairs (what true American does not enjoy a rocking-chair?), book in hand--though they do not often read the books, but rock gently to and fro, gazing sleepily out at the weird-looking buttes opposite, until their sharp outlines grow indistinct and purple in the after-glow of the sunset."

In contrast to T.R.’s rough cabin (which is near the visitor's center) at his first ranch, there is a luxurious home near by, the Chateau de Morès. This was owned by T.R.’s neighbors, the Marquis and Marquise de Morès. Luckily for modern tourists, the Chateau has been preserved as a historical site. Its elegant furniture and plumbing, modern for its time, made it stand out in the rough frontier era.

De Morès was almost as fascinating a character as T.R. himself, though an unsavory one in many ways. He was a renowned duelist, a cattle rancher in the Old West, and a railroad pioneer in Vietnam. Unfortunately, he was also an extreme anti-Semite. Famous also as a Dakota Territory gunslinger, he was arrested (but never convicted) for murder several times.

The Marquis built a meat-packing plant and tried to ship refrigerated meat to Chicago via the railroad, in order to avoid the cost of sending cattle to the Chicago stockyards, but the beef trust in Chicago squelched his efforts. Like T.R., he eventually gave up on cattle ranching and left the West. In later years the Marquis became very involved in anti-Jewish politics and was ambushed and killed in Africa, apparently by the French government. No one was ever arrested for his murder.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park is only one of the nation’s hundreds of national parks. 2016 is the 100th anniversary of the National Park System; though this may lead to some unwelcome campground crowding and stress on the parks' environments, it also is certainly a cause for great celebration. Everyone should visit some national park this year, and stopping at one of the less familiar parks, such as this one, may make it possible when Yosemite and Yellowstone are crammed full of tents and RVs.